Great Steaks, High Prices

It was a cold-but-not-too-cold day in December when I went with a friend to try Sullivan’s Steakhouse in Branson. We hit up the outlet mall for some Christmas shopping before heading to Branson Landing. After battling traffic and making several wrong turns during our outlet-mall adventure, then struggling to find a spot in the Bass Pro Shops parking lot, we raced through the cobbled Landing street to make it in time for our 7:30 p.m. reservation. On the way, we witnessed camera-wielding, Southern-sounding tourists catch their first-ever glimpse of Bass Pro Shops as they rounded a corner: “That’s the Bass Pro! Let’s get a picture!” Then (before we got to the choreographed fountain that happened to be shooting fire that night) we scooted past the Bud Shop and subsequently came upon a lovely view of the giant bluff-top manger scene across Lake Taneycomo. It was a surreal string of observations, but charming in the Branson Landing-and-cute-lampposts sort of way. We were ready for a nice dinner to top it off.

Finally we were at Sullivan’s. It’s right next to the fountain, which had quite a crowd that evening. But as soon as you step inside, the setting is less Branson Landing hustle-and-bustle and more steakhouse elegance. The restaurant is a nationwide chain with 16 locations. Its décor has a 1940s jazz lounge feel, with red carpet, black tablecloths, wood paneling with a cherry finish and dimly lit sconces. On one side of the dining room is a floor-to-ceiling wine room with windows, so you can see the vast selection. The opposite wall has a “dad’s den” feeling: tall built-in bookcases filled with antique-looking books stacked willy-nilly, as if someone had just finished reading them and tossed them aside. A third wall has a brick-framed arch that opens into the kitchen. Every so often you can see a burst of flame on the stove.

The atmosphere inside the dining room is relaxed and comfortable. It feels upscale, but not hoity-toity. We didn’t go in, but there’s a spiffy bar cut off from the dining room by big glass doors with what looked like a nice cigar selection in the humidor. Although we heard of different experiences from a few friends of the magazine, we had problem-free, prompt service. My only complaint is that our table was not ready when we got there. The restaurant was not packed, and we had made a reservation, so I was disappointed that we had to wait.

We started our meal with a Cajun crab cake appetizer ($12.99), which was far and away the best crab cake I’ve ever had. It wasn’t dry! And it was oh-so-flavorful. It came with one small-ish crab cake and a few super-crispy fried onions. The Cajun seasonings in the sauce were subtly spicy, not overwhelming.

My entrée was the sliced filet with gorgonzola garlic butter ($26.99). I ordered it cooked to medium temperature, and it came with a few stalks of asparagus and a sweet, rich sauce with crunchy peppercorns. I’m not a huge fan of sweet with meat, but even I have to admit that sauce was pretty tasty when combined with the sharpness of the gorgonzola-garlic butter. And the little spicycrunchy peppercorns sealed the deal. The steak was cooked perfectly, and the spicy-sweet-crunchy-soft-tender-sharp- garlicky-savory flavors and sensations all at once were like heaven.

My friend tried the mushroom duxelles filet mignon ($28.99). Typically, duxelles consist of finely minced, sautéed mushrooms, onions, shallots and herbs. Added to this, her steak was topped with more sautéed mushrooms. She loved it and said it was perfectly prepared and seasoned and even kind of addictive. (The day I wrote this, she told me she was craving it again.)

Salads and side dishes are sold à la carte at Sullivan’s, which is part of what ends up costing so much when you dine there. But they are also served family-style (read: in portions sized for sharing), so plan to split your sides. My friend and I ordered the asparagus ($7.99) and the horseradish mashed potatoes ($5.99). The asparagus was enough for three people, and the mashed potatoes were easily enough for four or five. We had leftovers of everything. The asparagus was served with hollandaise sauce (a nice treat), and the horseradish mashed potatoes complemented our steak perfectly. Neither of us ordered a salad, but Hope Brooks-Lovan, 417 Magazine’s art director, recommends the spinach salad with warm bacon dressing ($5.99). Hope also tried the Knockout martini, which she enjoyed. We decided not to try the martinis, but Sullivan’s touts them as a specialty.

The prices at Sullivan’s Steakhouse are steep. Add wine or martinis to the mix, and your tab runs up quickly. I say that to ward off sticker shock, not to discourage you from going there. I have nothing but good things to say about the food I tried at Sullivan’s, and I only regret that I didn’t get to try the spinach salad with warm bacon dressing or one of the restaurant’s decadent-sounding desserts (Grand Marnier soufflé, bananas foster bread pudding, espresso mocha mousse cake and more). Perhaps next time.

About Reviewing
Reviews are written by our editors as a service to readers, without advertising consideration. Visits are as anonymous as possible, and all expenses are paid by 417 Magazine. New restaurants are allowed four weeks to establish themselves before a first visit. To comment, please e-mail editor@417mag.com.