Fanciness on the Bluffs

Under new ownership and with a now-French menu, how does Candlestick Inn stack up during an old fan's return visit?

When 417 Magazine decided to do a review of Branson’s classic Candlestick Inn (now with an all-French menu), we thought it would be helpful to have somebody comment who had been able to dine at the restaurant prior to the change-up. That person would not be regular food-critic Katie Pollock. She never did make it there. So we recruited Kari Engel, art director of GO Magazine, to tackle the review. Kari had dined at Candlestick Inn with her boyfriend, John Hamra, about six months before the restaurant changed hands. On the following pages are her impressions of the restaurant today, after she and John made a return trip. (News for Candlestick regulars: The famous cupcake is no more, but its replacement was pretty tasty.)

Décor: It was clean and sophisticated, not too much decoration to distract you from the beautiful view from the windows that span the entire western wall. We went during the big flood in April, and most of the window seats were taken. But you could still catch the sunset from any seat in the restaurant. Insider tip: It is best to go in time to catch the sun going down. It really enhances the romantic mood. At first the sun is a little blinding through the windows, but the waiter can pull the shades for you as well. If it would have been warmer that day, we would have chosen to sit on the patio. I also would like to go back to grab a drink in the lounge. It has leather seats that looked extremely comfy and chill.

Service: Daniel B. was awesome. He answered all my dumb questions and didn’t act like they were dumb questions. He actually resembled MTV VJ Dave Holmes: super jolly and smiley. He was very personable and never left my water glass empty. (I drank more than five glasses because our food was pretty salty.)

Appetizer: We had the calamari for $13. It was breaded and flash fried. I have eaten calamari many times before, but the breading was light on the Candlestick version, so this was the first time I could see through the fried goodness to the purple of the squid. Interesting but still very yummy. It was served with a homemade marinara. John said it was one of the best calamari appetizers he’d ever had.

Entrées: John had the truite provencal ($29). It was a filet of trout with garlic, onion, tomatoes, fresh peppers, mushrooms and olive oil that was served with garlic mashed potatoes and steamed green beans. It was stuffed with the veggies and had a strong pepper taste. It was served boneless and without the head, but the skin was still on (that was something John hadn’t eaten before). He said it was incredible.
I ordered the fletan desseche par casserole ($29). It was pan-seared halibut, tarragon and beurre blanc (which translates to “white butter” and is a rich sauce made with vinegar or white wine, shallots and butter) and topped with flash-fried carrots. It was served with garlic mashed potatoes and steamed green beans. Our server said it’s the chef’s favorite. The sauce almost tasted like a sugar and cinnamon mixture with a kick of salt.

Dessert: We couldn’t resist ordering the warm chocolate chip cookie served with peanut butter ice cream ($8). It takes 10 minutes to cook because the cookie is baked fresh, but it comes out warm and gooey. Perfect for sharing. The server said it was their signature dessert. We also thought about trying the espresso crème brûlée, which sounded heavenly.

The Returner’s Verdict: I liked it better the second time I visited because the staff was more welcoming and explained the menu better. It was less stuffy than my first visit. Also, the new menu is more interesting, in my opinion. There are more new things to try. (Flash-fried carrots. Awesome!)

About Reviewing

Reviews are written by our editors as a service to readers, without advertising consideration. Visits are as anonymous as possible, and all expenses are paid by 417 Magazine. New restaurants are allowed four weeks to establish themselves before a first visit. To comment, please use our new Dining Feedback section on 417mag.com.