Taste the Flavors of Spain

Our Republic-based wine columnist uncovers the secrets of Jerez, in Spain's Andalusia region, where tapas and flamenco reign.

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Photo courtesy Bodegas Lustau Sherry is aged in casks stacked in what is called the solera system. The lowest level of casks—the solera—contains the wine ready to be bottled and sold. The sherry begins aging in the top layer of casks, or criadera.

Rates of Exchange

That afternoon, I ventured alone to the shopping district in central Jerez. The stores were inviting, and it was easy to find an English-speaking shop clerk. Although I only received 68 euros for $100, the prices were much lower than back at home.

The highlight of the trip came that night, as we traveled to El Laga del Tio Parilla, in the gypsy quarters of San Mateo. In a small, sweaty, brick building with no air conditioning and an old wooden stage, we ate a meal accompanied by a flamenco show from the family that owns the establishment.

Although it was hot, and the place is small, that group of men, women and teens sang, played and danced with more passion than I have ever experienced in any performance. All of us were enthralled and stayed up late into the night at the hotel, talking about what we had seen, heard and felt.

On our last day in Jerez, we ate a breakfast of churros, fried cinnamon pastry sticks, in the market plaza. Here, merchants in dozens of booths sell fresh fish, meats, fruits and vegetables of every kind. I was able to purchase a 1-kilogram (about 2-pound) bag of sea salt for 50 cents. Outside the market, clothing and accessories also sell at low prices.

Later that morning, we toured Bodegas Sandeman then walked to La Real Escuela Andaluza de Arte Ecuestre. This equestrian school teaches riders to train horses in the traditional Como Bailan los Caballos Andaluces show. In the arena, the best of the caballeros lead horses through intricate steps and maneuvers, all set to an score composed specifically for the show. It is a very solemn, reverent atmosphere, quite unlike anything I’ve ever seen.

Lunch was at El Bosque in Jerez. We all felt that it was the best restaurant of the tour. The food and service was impeccable. One of the cold soups—made with leeks and a small amount of tomato plus other ingredients that were a mystery—was so good I could have been satisfied with only that. As it was, we had tapas and soup followed by risotto with shrimp. All were accompanied by sherries, of course, and a dessert trio was paired with Pedro Ximenez.

Last Night in Spain

Our final stop was Bodegas Williams & Humbert. There, we viewed the famous Beatles casks, signed by John, Paul, George and Ringo. It is a modern operation with a bottling facility and a museum. Our host then took us to La Mesa Redonda for dinner, just around the corner from our hotel. They served a tremendous variety as well, with foie gras and seafood pâtés. Rare tuna was our entrée, and it was so fresh, it had probably been caught that morning.

We all knew it was our last night, and no one wanted to leave, so when our host offered Brandy de Jerez as an after-dinner drink, I was happy to sit and sip while the evening slipped into night.

Travel Guide

Plan now for a summer trip to Jerez, Spain.

Hotel:
• Hotel Sherry Park Avda
Alcalde Alvaro Domecq 11 bis,
011-34-956-31-76-14
holidaycityeurope.com/
sherry-jerez-frontera/index.htm

Restaurants:
• Mirador Donana
011-34-956-36-42-05 or 011-34-956-36-35-02,
Sanlú car de Barrameda
• Rojamura Restaurante
Av. Micaela Aramburu de Mora 26,
011-34-956-05-66-08, rojamura.com
• El Lagá del Tio Parilla,
Plaza del Mercado, 011-34-956-33-83-34
• El Bosque
Av. Alcalde Alvaro Domecq 26, 011-34-956-30-70-30

Ferry:
• Vaporcito de El Puerto, vapordeelpuerto.com

Bodegas (Sherry Estates):
• Bodegas Lustau, 011-34-956-34-15-97
• Bodegas Harveys, 011-34-956-15-15-00
• Bodegas Gonzalez, 011-34-956-35-70-00
• Bodegas Sandeman, 011-34-956-15-17-00
• Bodegas Williams & Humbert,
011-34-956-35-34-10

Horse Show:
La Real Escuela Andaluza De Arte Ecuestre Avda. Duque de Abrantes, 011-34-956-31-96-35

Sherry Styles

...for Your Next Tapas Party

Fino—Pale, completely dry, drunk young and well-chilled.
Amontillado—Aged. Most are dry, but “medium” or “rare” ones have a slight sweetness.
Oloroso—Dark and rich, can be aged for decades prior to bottling. Palo Cortado—In-between Amontillado and Oloroso.
Pale Cream—Very sweet, quite popular as an after-dinner drink.