A Quiet Spot on the Landing

Away from the hustle and bustle and fancy fountain views, Liberty Tavern forgoes any gimmicks for good food.

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There are several ways you can find yourself at Liberty Tavern. It’s inside the Hilton Promenade Hotel on Branson Landing, which is right about in the middle of the Landing on the Branson side (rather than the Lake Taneycomo side). You can enter from the hotel, from a walk down either end of the Landing, or straight from the street. It’s just a few steps from the sidewalk. My colleague, Kari Engel, and I chose the “stroll-through-the-Landing” method and entered near the covered patio. It wasn’t a bad first impression. There’s a large fire pit in the outdoor seating area that we think will be a popular spot for a post-shopping meal on cool autumn nights.

The first things we saw inside the restaurant were the green square, loungy booths (sans table)—a nice place to sit and have a more intimate chat with friends without a big dining surface between you. I’m not sure where you set your drink, but the seats looks appealing nonetheless.

The booth/benches are set off from the dining room by floor-to-ceiling shelves holding frosted rectangles of glowing orange light. “Fun booths,” I thought. “Sexy lights.” Between that and the fire pit, I liked the place already.

The entire appetizer menu was tempting, but we started our meal with the Maine lobster cakes ($12). Kari described them “absolutely amazing,” and I won’t argue with her. They came in a pair, each the size of my fist and chock full of little surprises: teeny shrimp, miniscule red pepper bits, slivers of crunchy almonds and unexpectedly big chunks of buttery lobster meat. Yum! There’s no wondering where the lobster is in these cakes. They were served with a sweet and crunchy fresh corn relish and a smoky tomato-tarragon sauce that provided just a little kick.

Because I went to Liberty Tavern in late August, I was oh-so-close to trying their 417 Restaurant Week three-course pre fixe menu offerings, in
no small part because the dessert choices included a grilled, stuffed peach and something called “brownie brulée.” (Mmm… insert Homer Simpson’s drooly noises here.)

Curiosity got the best of me, though, and I opted for something I’d never tried before: A port- and espresso-marinated pork chop that was served with goat cheese grits, green beans and a brandied ham glace. Although Liberty Tavern’s website says this dish is $24.95, prices have gone down, and it was really only $15.95. That was a steal, in my opinion. I might not pay $25 for it, but $16 almost didn’t do it justice.

The marinade doesn’t taste like espresso, per se, so don’t fear that it’s an odd combo with the pork chop. The port and espresso flavors add a wonderful, sharp bite to the mild and almost sweet meat, providing a tasty tang that I might not have been able to put my finger on if I didn’t already know what it was.

The goat cheese grits were delightful—creamy yet finely grainy. They were simultaneously easy on the taste buds and texturally fun for the tongue. The bites I took that had intercepted some of the brandied ham glace were extra-rich. They were so irresistible that I had my leftovers for breakfast the next day;
I couldn’t wait for lunch. I’m not going to lie; I’ve been craving them all week. They are dangerously delicious, if you’re a fan of fancied-up grits.

Kari ordered the roasted chicken with asiago mashed potatoes, wilted baby spinach and the same smoked tomato–tarragon sauce that came with the lobster cakes. She said the asiago potatoes were her favorite part of the meal, and the chicken was so tender and juicy that it just fell off the bone. I tasted the asiago mashed potatoes, and she’s right; they’re great. The cheese is strong enough to provide a very welcome punch in the mouth of flavor, but it’s not overwhelming. Personally, I liked the goat cheese grits even more, but I don’t think Kari would have traded. We were both in our own personal side dish heavens.