Explore Le Cave

South of Billings, a new winery is releasing a big red this fall.

Twenty-one minutes from Springfield’s western edge, a new winery is blooming south of Billings, cranking out rural charm and 12 varieties of wine. Le Cave Vineyards is the latest winery to be a part of Missouri’s push to build its wine-making industry. Owners Larry and Beth White, who’ve been planting in preparation for five years, opened their doors this summer. Since then, they’ve been welcoming weekend guests who taste wines, picnic and wander the 16 acres of their homestead-slash-winery. This month, they’re rolling out a new big red, making plans for a southwest Missouri wine trail and expanding their tasting center.

As the Whites knew at the beginning of their project, starting a winery is a complex task. There are things you have to do, such as find a 100-year-old barn that would make a charming tasting center and rehab it. (Start by shoveling out the manure.) You also will find yourself sourcing grapes from as far away as upstate New York and as close as a vineyard near Spank’s Gentlemen’s Club in Taney County. You’ll plant the grapes and endure ice storms and freezes. You’ll be out at 5:30 a.m. harvesting grapes. In the first few years you might only make 25 gallons of wine. You’ll likely be doing winery time on nights and weekends. (Beth works a day job at a Springfield law firm, and Larry has a business in salvage and recycling.)

The big issue in Missouri, however, is with the grapes. As in other up-and-coming wine states (think New York, upper Midwest), classical vinifera grapes like the ones from California or Europe typically won’t grow well here, owing to a climate with four very distinct seasons that can be difficult for vines. In the Whites’ case, that meant turning to hardier hybrids. Although they “somehow” got some cabernet and merlot grapes to grow here, the Whites have mainly cultivated varietals such as Missouri’s red Norton grape; the aurore grape, a French-American white; and Minnesota’s frontenac.

From these three varietals, dry, complex wines are emerging that can be used in any gourmet context. Larry expects to bottle about 30 cases of Le Cave Vineyards 2007 Frontenac for sale this month. That said, most of Le Cave’s offerings are hyper-sweet wines with names such as “Swannee Belle.” Larry has been making fruit wines his entire adult life but says he often gets friends to taste the sweeties for him. “They say 80 percent of Missouri wine-drinkers are sweet wine-drinkers,” he explains.

Wanna Taste?

Le Cave Vineyards
6696 Jasmine Rd, Billings
417-744-4122, lecavevineyards.com
From Springfield: Take Highway 60 west past Billings, about 16 miles. Turn left onto MO 413. Drive 3.9 miles and turn left onto Jasmine Road. Le Cave Vineyard is on the right side of the road, 1.9 miles to the east.

Best Wines in the Cave

While reporting this article, the Whites invited me to taste most of Le Cave’s 12-wine list. These three would work nicely for a nice dinner party or picnic-date for two. Tip: Le Cave Vineyards refunds $10 off the purchase of six or more bottles. —G.H.

Le Cave Vineyards 2005 Aurore
French-American hybrid with a crisp, chalky flavor that balances nicely with rich seafood. $17.95 per bottle.

Le Cave Vineyards 2006 Frontenac
Minnesota-bred, oak-aged dry red with medium to full body. Would pair with a good steak or hard, sharp cheeses. Releases this month; the Whites say each bottle will be around $20.

2005 Chambourcin Missouri Port
Chambourcin is a French-American red hybrid also known as “Pennsylvania Zinfandel” in some parts. This Missouri port would go well with dark chocolate and a cigar. $37.95 per 750-mililiter bottle.