We Review the Reimagined Wheelhouse

Confession: Before I visited the re-imagined Wheelhouse (307 S. Jefferson Ave., Springfield, MO), I was a skeptic. I don’t love change, and I had already heard they quit serving my beloved peanut chicken nachos. But despite it all, they completely won me over.

I was feeling adventurous, so I ordered the Toad and Thistle for my cocktail. It features a shiitake butter-washed London Dry gin as the key ingredient, paired with rye whiskey and artichoke amaro, all rounded out with a touch of maple, chocolate and orange bitters. For all the flavors layered in this drink, it was surprisingly smooth and even a bit nutty.

My husband, Chandler, is a big fan of Negronis, so he decided to go with the Rice & Spice, a riff on this classic drink. The addition of rice starch and sake paired with an unexpected layer of nori on the ice cube was a nice nod to the other Japanese flavors present throughout the menu.

Confession number two: These drinks were so good we ordered a second round, and the Dr. Tango ended up being our favorite. It features Dr. Pepper, plus many other delicious additions that bring notes of cherry and lime. But it was the salted cherry blossom boba garnish that really made this a memorable drink.

Tracy Johanna, beverage director, is a Springfield native who moved back home after working in the New York beverage industry for two decades. I love that she’s not afraid to push the envelope with daring flavor combinations. 

We ordered the banchan fries as a starter, and I was taken aback by how the strong flavors in the hot mustard and kimchi worked perfectly in unison to make a great topping.

I chose the coconut salmon as my main, and it was a solid decision. One of my favorite aspects of this dish was the duqqa topping, which added an earthy flair and just the right amount of crunch. The plating was stunning, and the way they tightly rolled the bok choy made for easy consumption. Chandler ordered the carne asada, which he described as having the perfect sear. He particularly loved the jeow som sauce, which had a spicy, umami flavor.

This was one of those meals where I wanted to be a cliché and send my compliments to the chef, which in this case is Trevor Dean and Daniel Love. They are two of the first Wheelhouse employees, dating back to when it was a food truck. The two temporarily left to get more culinary experience, and both coincidentally got to work under James Beard-nominated chefs during their time away. 

If you’re looking for more of a casual experience, turn your attention to the family-style meals. But better yet, don’t go in expecting the same casual experience of old Wheelhouse days. I learned that as my palate has matured over the years, Wheelhouse has matured with it.